If you are about to obtain your first pet lizard, congratulations. Lizards are, in my view, the most wonderful, fascinating and beautiful creatures on Earth. Part of their appeal is their incredible diversity; there are more species of lizards than all the mammals or amphibians, and they range from three-inch legless burrowers to the mighty 200-pound Komodo dragon. Some are coloured with somber tans and ochre, and others rival the most ostentatious of butterflies with gaudy green, red, and yellow markings. Some glide on fragile wings, some run across the water, and some can stick to ceilings. With my sincere apology to Samuel Johnson, it is my opinion that “when a man gets tired of lizards, he is tired of life”!
That said, here are ten valuable guidelines to help you and your lizard get off to a good start, and stay on a safe and happy course. I speak with a wee bit of experience, having kept lizards since 1961, and going on to spending over 30 years as a professional herpetologist. These tips are just a starting point, but they cover ten really important points!
Feeding a bird is easy. After all, you just toss some seeds in a bowl and give them some water and you’re done, right? Actually, if you want a healthy bird, you will need to do a bit more than that. There are quite a few different bird diets you can choose from.
Bird seed has been the diet of choice for many years, but it is no longer very popular with many bird lovers. However, there is actually nothing wrong with bird seed if it is used in combination with other types of food. Millet and safflower seeds are better for birds than sunflower seeds, which are high in fat and can cause obesity and related diseases in parrots that only eat sunflower seeds. If you feed seeds to your birds, you should make sure that the seeds do not comprise more than 30 percent of your bird’s diet.
In shopping for a horse there are a few basic rules to meet success. Do yourself a favor and read this guideline if you want a smooth transition into your next purchase of an equine. All buyers interested in horses are interested for different reasons. The most important thing you can do for yourself is know yourself. Knowing yourself will ultimately lead you to understand what you need to aim for in finding the “right” horse. For instance, if you have never owned a horse before don’t buy a untrained horse or a young one for that matter. The market right now is such that you can find a well broke experienced horse for a good price. Also understand a horse will not train you, you need to find someone to help you learn how to become a good rider and a responsible horse owner. A well trained horse makes this transition a lot smoother if your new at being a horse owner.
Louis is a frisky 3.5 year old Domestic Short Hair (with a cute bobbed tail!) whose owner surrendered him in early March as he was too rough for the kids. Louis is a feisty fella who would do best in a home with adults only- someone out there must be looking for a cat with lots of spunk & purrsonality! He might be a good choice for a rural home where he can hunt & wander safely. Louis’ adoption fee includes his neuter, vet exam, vaccine, Rabies, pet insurance & more!
Hunter, 112174
Hunter is a big fella used to living with other cats and kids. Hunter is a very nice and friendly kitty who has tested negative for feline AIDS and feline leukemia- he’s also been vaccinated against Rabies since being surrendered to us in early March. Hunter would really like to be adopted soon and would probably be a good choice if you have kids/cats in the home already. Adoption fee includes vet exam, neuter, 14-day health period, pet insurance, owner handbook and more!
If you would like to adopt one of these pets, please contact:
Saving just one dog won’t change the world… but it surely will change the world for that one dog
Adoption fees include vet exam, spay/neuter, pet insurance & more! www.winnipeghumanesociety.ca for more information.
Are you expecting a baby and have a dog at home? Consider coming to our Dogs & Storks class Wed., April 23, 7pm-9pm, or Sat., April 26, 2pm-4pm. $50 per couple (please leave your furry family member at home.) One, two-hour fun and interactive session at The WHS! Register today! Call 204.982.3555
For the sake of your ferret’s safety and your sanity, it pays many times over to take a careful look at your home. Ferrets are active and highly exploratory animals. They’re also extremely slender and agile. They can get into the most unlikely places. Examining your home inside and out for all the ways a ferret can get into trouble will save both you and it a lot of grief.
First, try to imagine that you are a busy, curious ferret. Get low down to the floor and look at everything low enough or having holes large enough for you to investigate. Rest assured your ferret will! Recliner chairs, couches, beds and a whole lot more that are common around houses are spaces that a ferret can and will seek out.
Having a pet in your college dorm or apartment has several advantages — you’ll have something soft and warm to cuddle with during those stressful moments, there’ll be someone waiting for you to come home, and your dorm or apartment will feel homey and cozy. But, taking care of a pet means additional responsibilities. Aside from your studies, extra-curricular activities, and social life, you also have to spend some time grooming and playing with your pet. If you think you can handle a pet and your college responsibilities, here are some tips on how to make things go smoothly:
What is ‘proper’ in a rabbit’s diet depends on what kind of creature it is. And since rabbits are herbivores, they need to be fed exclusively plant material - grains, vegetables and the occasional fruit.
Rabbits need substantial grassy fiber and a good deal of vegetable protein. They have fairly delicate digestive systems and they can’t vomit anything which disagrees with them. So, it’s necessary to be careful to ensure they get the right foods in the right proportion.
Golden Retrievers are among the more active breeds and require a lot of exercise to stay fit and happy. Originally bred for game fetching, these energetic dogs can run much of the day, even late into life.
Training and exercise should start young, at around 8-10 weeks. At first the level of activity should be no more than what the pup is willing to do spontaneously. They’ll scamper around, explore bushes and wrestle with one another in between naps. But add to that by getting them to follow you in a particular direction, at least briefly. That’s the beginning of focusing on you and doing as you ask.
Training and exercise should start young, at around 8-10 weeks. At first the level of activity should be no more than what the pup is willing to do spontaneously. They’ll scamper around, explore bushes and wrestle with one another in between naps. But add to that by getting them to follow you in a particular direction, at least briefly. That’s the beginning of focusing on you and doing as you ask.
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